Common Questions
How often should I inspect my waterproofing?
Annually, ideally before the winter rains (so roughly March or April in the Garden Route). Catching small cracks, blisters and flashing issues before they let water in saves you the cost of a full replacement and the damage that comes with a leak.
Can you recoat any existing membrane?
Most of them. Torch-on, acrylic, fibre-reinforced and cementitious systems can all be recoated with the correct prep and topcoat. Some silicone and solvent-based systems need a compatibility check first. We’ll confirm during the inspection.
How much does recoating extend the life?
Typically another 5–10 years on a properly recoated system, depending on the topcoat chosen and the underlying membrane condition. That’s compared to roughly 15–20 years for a full replacement — so recoating is usually the more cost-effective call.
Do I need to recoat if there’s no leak?
If the existing membrane is showing cracking, UV chalking, blisters or lifting laps, yes — recoat before it fails. Waiting for a leak usually means you also need to fix the ceiling, the insulation and the damage inside.
Do you give a guarantee on recoating work?
Yes — a written workmanship guarantee on the new coating (typically 5 years depending on the system and topcoat), on top of the manufacturer’s product warranty.
Recoating is only sound where the existing system is sound, and compatibility decides that. A liquid membrane from one manufacturer’s range recoats readily within its own system; putting an unrelated product over an aged acrylic, or any liquid system over an oxidised bitumen membrane, is where most recoat failures start. We identify what is on the roof first — the Sika, a.b.e., Fosroc and Derbigum systems are all identifiable on inspection — and specify either a compatible recoat or a full strip, rather than coating over a problem.
